Torres del Paine- Part 1

For twenty years, ever since I did a research project on Patagonia in a community college Spanish class, it has been my dream to do this backpacking trip.  We were still preparing to go to Paraguay and I wanted to get a base in the language before we left.  I was probably the oldest student in the Spanish class and was definitely the most passionate about learning the language.  When we got the opportunity to write a report about any region in the Latin world I chose the southern-most part of South America- Patagonia.  That's when I learned about Torres del Paine National Park and knew that some day I had to go there to hike along the aqua-marine lakes and rivers, climb the mountains, and see the rock towers for myself!  I excitedly presented about this dramatic region where the Andes Mountains become jagged and plunge into the Antarctic waters creating countless lakes, and sounds.  Afterwards my Spanish teacher commented that just hearing about it made her feel cold.

Fast forward twenty years and my oldest son, Eli and I are beholding the panorama of the Andes Mountains through a massive window at the airport in Santiago.  We've just flown over the mountain range on a four-hour flight and will soon fly for another four hours over the Chilean coast to one of the southern-most cities in the world, Punta Arenas.  

It was over 100 degrees when we left Paraguay and near freezing temperatures greet us when we arrive at midnight.  The next morning a taxi drives us to the terminal where a bus will take us north to Puerto Natales which is the gateway city into Torres del Paine.  The night before it was dark and rainy but now, as we look out our vehicle windows, it's clear to see that the landscape is drastically different.  We are driving along Magellan's Strait where a monument honors the legendary explorer.

At the bus station there's a mural depicting Guanacos, llama-like animals set in front of the Paine mountain range.  A teaser of what we're about to experience!  

Once on the bus we roll across the Patagonian landscape for three hours.  Eli and I are astonished when we realize that there are literally no other settlements between Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales.  This is truly wild country!  As hoped, we see wildlife including Guanacos, Ñandús (Emus), and even pink Flamingos wading in icy water.

Aside from the occasional lone ranch dotting the landscape the countryside is uninhabited.  With their brightly colored roofs these quaint abodes stand out from their surroundings.  Most homes are set back a mile or two from the highway but are still easily visible across the flat tundra.  A winding dirt or gravel path connects them with the only road leading to civilization where there's inevitably a booth.  Wherever there's a residence there's also a roadside booth and I surmise these must be bus stops- fully enclosed to protect travelers from the fierce elements until their transportation arrives.  Eventually we reach our destination where we all unload at the park's registration.  Most people grab their packs and set off on foot from there but Eli and I get back on the bus which takes us deeper into the park until we reach lake Pehoé where a catamaran will take us to our first campsite.

In Patagonia they say you can experience all four seasons in one day but for us it's completely overcast with thick clouds obscuring the mountain range.  Nevertheless the boat ride is spectacular as we cut across the turquoise blue lake.  After experiencing our hottest summer in Paraguay the cold wind on our faces is a refreshing change.  Excitement mounts as we approached our first campsite in Torres del Paine National Park. 

Eli and I had our winter gear shipped down from the US so we'd be prepared for colder temperatures.  Over the next nine days we will hike eighty miles.  Each of our packs weigh fifty pounds.  Eli is carrying most of the food and I am carrying most of the gear.  In all my experience backpacking I have never actually done a trip this long without restocking in between.  Everything we need for the next week and a half is in our packs- shelter, food, clothing, fuel, and more.  Carrying all our own equipment and food makes our time in the park very affordable.  We are doing the 'O trek', which circumnavigates the entire Paine mountain range.  For Eli and I our trek will start and end at the Paine Grande campsite where our catamaran drops us off.  We had arrived!

The camp is situated on the lakeshore and Eli and I do a day hike before padding down in our tent for the night.  The next morning we set out underneath a still overcast sky knowing that somewhere above our heads looms the Cuernos- dueling peaks shaped like massive horns carved out by glaciers.  We inwardly hope the weather will lift but don't want to get our hopes up too high. 

Contenting ourselves with the scenery on the ground is more than enough as we hike past bright red flowers and brilliant-blue lakes.  We have never seen nature like this before!  

As we hike we hear thunder rumble overhead.  Knowing we can experience any kind of weather we prepare for rain but as the rumbling continues we realize it's the sound of glaciers shifting in the mountaintops- hidden from sight somewhere above the clouds!  As we follow the sound and look closer we spot the bottom of Frances Glacier.  How high up into the mountains it goes we can only guess.  We stop for lunch at Camp Italiano situated next to a raging river fed by the glacier's runoff.

After lunch, as we continue to hike into the afternoon, the clouds begin to lift.  Our breath is taken away as, little by little, we get glimpses of the Cuernos.  We couldn't have imagined they were so massive and high above our heads! 

As the sun comes out the Cuernos' beauty is put on full display.  At the time, little did we know that we would enjoy clear skies for the next week.  Only after our trip ended would locals tell us how lucky we were to have enjoyed such beautiful weather at the bottom of the world.  When we arrive at our second campsite appropriately named Cuernos we pitch our tent directly beneath the looming massifs!

With the sun still high late in the afternoon Eli and I hike down to the lake to soak our feet, drink some tereré using the Yerba Mate I brought from Paraguay, and read our Bibles.  As I sit amidst the stunning scenery I can't believe we are actually here in Patagonia Chile!  For me, this is a trip of a lifetime.

The sun eventually tucks behind the mountains after 10pm.  I'm thankful to have such long days.  It means we won't get caught in the dark on our longer hiking days.  The temperature drops as countless stars and strange constellations appear in the southern hemisphere sky.  Eli and I play some cards in the tent before falling asleep.  Our adventure had begun!