Torres del Paine- Part 2

We awoke in camp to spectacular views.  The clouds had lifted as we hiked the day before, revealing glaciers nestled high in the Patagonian peaks.  Waterfalls poured down the mountainsides feeding into the turquoise-blue Nordenskjold Lake.  Today, we would backtrack to work our way up past Francés Glacier into the heart of Torres del Paine National Park.  There we would find Mirador Británico.  As we backtracked, we would actually be hiking past our campground so we would try to secure our site and continue the out-and-back with just daypacks.  Here is our trek as it appears on Strava:

We heaved our 50+ pound packs onto our backs and began the trek back toward where we had come the day before.  Naturally, Eli began to complain, pointing out to me that we would have to do this same trek for a third time tomorrow!  His grievance was justified.  It was not easy going.  This particular section of trail undulated over rocky creek beds and over low-laying ridges feeding down toward the lake we were paralleling.

The reason for our back-and-forth was a nerve-wracking delay to the start of this dream trip.  During the pandemic Chile maintained strict regulations at the border.  I didn't realize I had neglected to upload extra documentation until the day we were supposed to fly!  After nearly canceling the trip we arrived in Patagonia a week later than expected.  I had to restructure our itinerary but, in the end, we were able to make it work by ferrying to a different starting point in the park and, as mentioned, backtracking over this two-mile section of trail.  I reasoned with my son that if we had to do the same hike three times, 'What better place in the world!?  Over 99% of the people in the world will never get to hike along this beautiful section of trail and we get to do it three times!'  Needless to say, my watertight logic didn't make the hiking any easier.

We were able to drop our packs in camp and secure our campsite.  We were just a little uneasy as we ate lunch with a bird of prey perched on a low branch, watching us all the while!  We could feel the energy and excitement return to our bodies as we set out again with much lighter day packs filled with nothing more than the essentials.  But we quickly realized it wasn't easy-going.  Almost as soon as we left camp we turned north and began to climb up into the heart of Torres del Paine.  Undaunted, Eli and I fell into a good rhythm putting miles behind us.  The weather had warmed significantly now that the sun was shining.  Thankfully our path was shaded as we weaved through trees lining the Rio del Francés.  The river roiled with the melt-off from the massive glacier high above.  

Glacier Francés was quickly drawing nearer as we continued to climb.  Then the view that Eli would later say was his favorite in the entire park came into site.  Alive and moving, chunks of ice would break off and, seconds later, we would hear them crash.  The glacier was so large it engulfed our entire panorama.  

Most visitors to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine stop at Glacier Francés.  However, Eli and I continued deeper into the park setting our sights on Mirador Británico.  The trail continued along the same river and we stopped to filter more drinking water.  Though we were still climbing, the path didn't seem to be as steep.  We found a shelter that somebody before us had built, apparently as a rest station for weary travelers with the benefit of some shelter in case of bad weather.  

We pressed on- still steadily climbing.  We were growing tired.  Either we were slowing down or Mirador Británico had appeared closer on the map.  Maybe both.  Then, the trail finally leveled and we entered into a bowl nestled in the heart of the Torres' mountain range.  It was like stepping out onto a lunar landscape.  Almost 360 degrees of jagged spires surrounded us.  All the while the sun glared down on us.  

  

We had made it to Mirador Británico!  After taking in the other-worldly terrain we began our descent.  With our light packs we were now moving a lot faster back down toward camp.  As we passed by Glacier Francés, possibly for the last time in our lives, we took one more picture.  

Long days would grace our time at the bottom of the world as the sun remained in the sky until 10:30 in the evening.  We arrived back in camp with plenty of daylight.  The sun shone high as we cooked up dinner with other backpackers in the designated cook station. Eli and I recalled the amazing events of the day.  Tomorrow we would make our way to the Chileno base camp from which we would climb to the iconic towers for which the National Park and even Patagonia was known.