Torres del Paine- Part 3

It was the start of our third full day in Torres del Paine National Park in one of the southern-most parts of the world where the Andes mountains plunge into the ocean.  The nine-day 'O Trek' we were doing circumnavigated the entire park with the exception of two treks that deviate to spectacular destinations in the heart of the park.  The day before had been one of those treks taking us past Glacier Frances (pictured above).  Today we would be hiking over 10 miles along the full length of Lake Nordenskjold to the popular Chileno camp.  From there, before the sun rose the next day, we would climb up to the park's namesake, 'Los Torres del Paine'.  

For the third time we hiked along the two-mile section of trail we had previously followed.  In spite of the repetition, the views were spectacular and the going adventurous.  Months later, after our sore feet and aching shoulders recovered, we would look back on this stretch of trail with fondness.  The challenge facing us was to see past the monotony and discomfort to the beauty surrounding us and enjoy the adventure.  Backpacking is a microcosm of the same challenge that faces us in all of life.  And what better place to practice overcoming that challenge than in Patagonia!

Sooner than expected we found ourselves trekking through the camp we had stayed at two nights before.  The spectacular 'Cuernos' loomed overhead with the moon situated against the bluest palette of sky.  I was struck by the variety of mountains in this park.  Towers, horns, glaciers, spires.  So much diversity was packed into this small section of South America.  As we continued along the lake we admired the mountains on display- carved into singular shapes by glaciers with their striking features silhouetted against the blue sky.  

All the while the turquoise blue lake was to our right reflecting the landscape and clouds.  If we had been on the far side of the lake we would see the iconic images of this Patagonian range reflected in its waters.  Instead, we were characters in this painting as we hiked through the scene.  A father and son on the trip of a lifetime.

We reached the end of Lake Nordenskjold then turned north and began to climb.  The sun was relentless and the UV index in this part of the world was almost always extreme.  We applied sunscreen and did our best to keep from baking.  Eventually we entered into a valley working its way upward to where we would camp.  Our trail, cut into the side of the steep valley, wound its way above the appropriately named, Rio Ascencio (Ascension River), both rising to a wall of mountain and glacier.  Somewhere in there, hidden from sight, were the Towers.  That's where we were headed.

As we worked our way toward camp we were passed by a young couple wearing Paraguay's national soccer jersey.  We laughed and smiled as we greeted each other in Guarani.  It was a special connection so far from home.  After a little more hiking our trail descended to cross the river and we entered into the Chileno camp.  One of the most popular destinations in the park it was a fun atmosphere with a restaurant, horseback riders, rock climbers, a foosball table, slack lines, backpackers, and tents.

After pitching our tent we set our alarms for 3:30 a.m. and turned in early.  The next morning we strapped on our daypacks in the dark.  Knowing there could be snow higher up we put on extra layers to insulate from the cold.  By the light of our headlamps we navigated the wooded trail to the Torres.  If the weather cooperated, the sun's first rays would bath the monoliths in orange light.  We couldn't wait!  Sweating and breathing hard I asked Eli to stop so I could take off some layers.  In the dark my numb hands fumbled with my camera and it fell a few feet hitting the ground.  I picked it up and we were soon on our way again.  We reached our destination an hour before sunrise.  As the sky began to lighten and the towers came into view I got out my camera to take a picture.  That's when I realized my camera was broken!  The photograph only revealed the backside of the shutter which had jammed.